What goes into a classic, timeless suit? Japanese designer Yuki Igarashi weighs in

A couple of years ago, when Osman Abdul Razak was being fitted for a suit by Yuki Igarashi, founder of Japan-based menswear brand Lecteur, he recalls being struck by how neatly Yuki’s pins were arranged on his pin cushion. 

“As an onlooker there, I couldn’t help but analyse this precision. I was told that the pins were made from katana steel, the material famously used in the swords of samurais. Even the way the pins pierce through fabric felt different,” says the fashion entrepreneur and Savile-row certified bespoke tailor from Chennai. 

Seeing Yuki’s precision translate into his designs and garments got Osman thinking; not just about how he could take a garment of his through multiple iterations for that perfect fit, but also how he could give India a taste of the Japanese tailoring and design philosophy. 

Maison Madras, an experience space curated by Osman and located above his atelier on KNK Road welcomed Yuki and his team from Lecteur earlier this week, for a made-to-measure trunk show, before heading to Mumbai for a similar trunk show as a part of a week-long visit to India. 

Yuki (second from left) and Osman with their teams in Chennai
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

After a stint at Japanese clothing chain Beams, Yuki established Lecteur nearly a decade ago, with salons now in Tokyo and Kobe. “We spotlight our work with Japanese craftsmen; for many, it has become hard to continue working in this field and we believe it is our responsibility to honour our culture. I also believe that our clients should know where their clothes are coming from, and what goes into making it,” he says. 

Delving into their tailoring, and what sets their signature house pattern, LC 10 apart, the designer speaks about how the focus is simple to make comfort wear and yet, stay quiet, classic and timeless. 

“There are subtle details, none of which stand out in your face and yet it is comfortable enough to wear all day. Many people say suits are tiring, that it feels hard to even take off the jacket by themselves. We do not want to put people off from wearing suits so we came up with this,” he says. 

A wide spectrum of customers, he says, gravitates towards a finely-tailored suit. “For many clients, wearing a suit isn’t necessarily a statement. They look for a more sophisticated, quieter way of wearing suits as part of their everyday wardrobe and I think it is important to design menswear in a way that facilitates this as well.” 

Classic throwback

Suits by Lecteur
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

In the age of being spoiled with options for clothes that are ready-to-wear, the designer acknowledges a slow and steady shift, especially among youngsters, to go back to the classic way of dressing. “When they look at classic, or the gentlemanly way of dressing, they feel excited and inspired to look sophisticated. They want to experiment with classic silhouettes; this is often influenced by them rediscovering their own roots or even being inspired by how their grandparents used to dress,” he augurs. 

At Chennai and Mumbai, following one-on-one client meet-ups, suits will be made at Lecteur’s salons in Japan and will then be shipped back to India. “Much like what I follow at my atelier, Yuki also meets with clients, and the focus here is process-driven. When we sit down and have a conversation with a client, we seek to understand their lifestyle, body type and other factors that can influence the design and tailoring in the best way possible,” Osman explains, making a case for a more personalised approach to menswear. 

Shoulder styles, canvas construction, lapels and more… what does one keep in mind while getting their first made-to-measure or bespoke suit made? Yuki recommends that one skips scrutinising the very minute details and instead, focusses on “following a feeling”. “How does the suit make you feel… does it feel good? Rather than dressing up to get praised, wear something that you personally gravitate towards,” he says.